I want to print cards for my game, without using a commercially-available site. Basically, I'm looking for materials I could find in a store. How do I make these cards in a work- and price-efficient way, making sure that they look nice afterward? I am building a Print and Play game, but so far I am not satisfied with the cards I was able to make. I tried printing them on thin paper and mounting on poker cards, and printing them on thicker paper.
However both of these methods make the cards pretty much unfit for shuffling, since the paper goes off while shuffling. I saw that the game "Twilight Imperium" printed their cards on thin plastic.
Is it possible to buy something like that and print directly onto the material? Are there any good material out there that you can print on directly? While one can't riffle-shuffle well, laminating pound cardstock with Con-Tac brand vinyl does allow for hanafuda style shuffling, and works quite well.
The resultant cards are tough, easily handled in play, and durable. I did this for playtesting the Freemarket RPG. I've made decks of cards using card stock, and it's HEAVIER than most cheap poker cards; it lacks the plastic coating, tho, making it less smooth to riffle shuffle. Same issues as unlaminated cardstock. You could use common card protectors like people use to protect cards from trading cards games Magic, etc. What your stuff in there printed cardboard, paper-glued-on-other-cards, If not, what about photo printing services?
Look for ones making postcards, you can probably easily fit 4 cards on a potcards and they ought to be rigid enough. All the above run through most laser printers just fine. Most go through most ink jets well, too. When printing on a laser printer, the issue is that the toner will usually only bond well with one side.
On an ink jet, the issue varies by type of ink. Inks intended to be absorbed often alcohol based take some time to dry, and often, won't absorb into one side of a sheet of cardstock. Print a sheet, and set it aside, then print next. Wax-based inks usually leave a texture; they break off in shuffling, and are unsuitable for anything other than laminated or sleeved use. One can "plastic coat" one's cards with a thin layer of hairspray or matte sealer. It lengthens the lifespan of cards, but is a messy process, and adds considerable drying time.
Check out Artscow. I have a friend who has used them before for a custom deck and he was very happy with their work. Also, the price is very reasonable for custom print work. ETA: I mis-read the question and thought that the OP was looking for commercial sites, when they actually were specifically not doing so. Red and blue are the most commonly used colors, but almost any color or design is possible.
Often a company will order a deck of cards as an advertising specialty and have their logo printed on the card back. Some card backs have a white border while the pattern on others extends to the edge of the card.
In general, the back patterns are symmetrical so cards have only one real orientation. Notable exceptions are advertising specialty and souvenir cards, which typically have a non-symmetrical picture on the back. Cards are used for a variety of purposes. The most common use of cards is for playing parlor games. Some of the more popular games include bridge, rummy, and gin.
Gambling games such as poker and black-jack also employ standard decks of cards. In addition, specially printed cards are used as game implements for board games. These cards may have trivia questions, words, or symbols on them that are important in game play. Other types of cards are used as teaching aids. Non-standard decks of cards are also available and used for different reasons. Tarot cards are typically larger and heavy than standard cards.
They have 78 cards, 22 of which have symbolic images. They are used for fortune telling and divination purposes. A variety of magic, or trick, cards are produced. One type of trick cards is marked cards.
The back design of these cards is subtly changed so that the faces can be determined just by looking at the back. Other trick decks have shortened cards or have tapered ends, which help a conjuror find a selected card. Novelty cards are also manufactured.
This includes oddly shaped cards or metal cards for outdoor use, which can stick to a magnetized playing surface. Union playing cards printed at the time of the American Civil War. Playing cards may have been used in China as early as the seventh century and perhaps were known in India around this time as well—early European playing cards include Indian motifs associated with Hindu Gods. No one is sure how the playing card moved from Asia to Europe—did Niccolo Polo or his son introduced the playing card and associated games to Italy?
Or perhaps the Arabs introduced the Spanish to the colorful hand-painted cards? Nevertheless, we do know that by the thirteenth century the entire continent enjoyed card-playing; the British card-makers petitioned for protection from imported cards, and German printers were block-printing rather than hand-painting cards by the late s. Dutch, French, and British settlers in the New World brought playing cards with them.
While the deck motifs have remained relatively unchanged, clothing and appearance of the court cards have been altered according to card designer and intended market. They include no depicted European-style royalty, but use politicians and famous Union generals in their place! They were surely printed to bolster pride in the Union cause and thumb their nose at the European royalty at the same time. Playing cards can be made with paper or plastics.
To make a card, layered paper is Printing plates are made for both the front and the back of the cards. We offer 3 different kinds of cardstock — gsm greycore, gsm ivorycore, and gsm black core cards. The most common card sizes we print are Blackjack 88x63mm , Bridge 57x87mm and Mini cards 44x67mm in that order. We look for function in all of our materials. Publishers may choose a thicker cardstock for a gameplay reason — say the cards are laid out on the table as locations for the game or are not shuffled into a deck that often — that would be a good situation for a thicker card.
Thicker cards do not always mean more expensive or higher quality, though. There are a lot of factors that go into how a card will perform in a game — its outer finishing, the core of the cardstock, and the weight of the cardstock all come into play when it comes to how a card is used in a game. It is popular because it is a very good stock at a solid price and works well in a wide variety of game types. All our our cards are finished with an aqueous water based finish.
This finish helps seal the card and preserve the paper for a longer time. Another finish that can be added on to our cards is called linen finish — this is a cross hatching type pattern that is pressed on to the cards and gives them more texture. The linen finish gives the cards more of a matte finish while cards with just aqueous finish and no linen are more glossy.
The card manufacturing process involves quite a few steps. First obviously the client will indicate how many cards they want to have made and in what cardstock and finish. Then they will upload their art for the cards and our prepress team will review those art files. If the files are acceptable to our printing standards then we will upload a digital proof for the client to approve to make sure there are no typos or any other items they want to change on the files.
Once those digital files are approved, our team will make a PPC preproduction copy of the game and the cards and send it to the client for final approval — this is a single copy of the game that is made from special machinery.
Once the PPC is approved then we mass produce the game and the cards. The artwork for the cards is laid out front and back on printing plate sheets and then it is printed onto the chosen cardstock sheets. Once the sheets are printed then they are run through a cutting machine that cuts the sheets lengthwise and then runs down a track and cut cross wise to divide up all the individual cards. The cards then go through a sorting machine that puts them into individual decks and those decks are run through a shrink-wrapping machine that binds the cards together.
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